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Home/Renovations/Kitchens

Kitchens

Full remodels and the layout changes that make them worth doing — walls out, ceilings opened, services relocated, floors made level.

The real question

Is it a refit or a rebuild

Two very different projects get called a kitchen renovation, and it's worth being clear which one you're planning.

A refit keeps the layout and replaces what's in it — cabinets, counters, appliances, flooring, lighting. Faster, considerably cheaper, and the right answer when the plan already works.

A rebuild changes the layout. Removing a wall, relocating the sink or range, moving a doorway, opening to the dining room. This is where the plumbing, electrical and often the structure all move, and it's where most of the cost and most of the value live.

The trap is a refit in a kitchen whose layout is the actual problem. You spend a lot and still walk around the same peninsula. We'd rather tell you that at the assessment.

Structure

Taking the wall out

The wall between the kitchen and everything else is load-bearing more often than not, particularly in the colonials and capes common around here where it frequently runs under the centre of the house.

  • Determine what it carries. Joist direction, what's above, and whether anything else is bearing on it.
  • Size the beam. Engineered lumber in most cases. Flush with the ceiling if you want a clean opening, dropped if the depth needed makes flush impractical — we'll show you both.
  • Follow the load down. New posts at each end, blocking through the floor system, and often a new footing in the basement. Quotes that skip this step are the ones that cause problems later.
  • Relocate what's in the wall. Wiring, plumbing, ductwork and sometimes a chase for the upstairs bathroom all need somewhere else to go.
  • Permit and inspect it. Structural changes are inspected, and unpermitted ones become a problem at resale.

A flush beam and a dropped beam cost differently and look completely different. That's a decision, not a detail.

Sequence

How a kitchen runs

01

Design and selections

Layout, cabinetry, appliances and finishes chosen before demolition starts. Long-lead items ordered early — cabinets and stone are the usual delay, and both are worse if decided late.

02

Demolition

Contained, with services safely capped. This is also when we find out what's actually behind the walls and under the floor.

03

Structure

Beam and post work, floor levelling, subfloor repair. Everything structural happens before anything else goes back.

04

Rough-in

Electrical, plumbing and HVAC moved to suit the new layout, then inspected. Anything going inside a wall gets photographed first.

05

Close up

Insulation, drywall, taping and priming. The point at which the room starts looking like a room.

06

Cabinets and counters

Cabinets installed and scribed level, then templated for stone. Countertop fabrication typically adds one to two weeks between template and installation.

07

Finish

Backsplash, flooring, trim, paint, appliance installation, lighting and hardware. Then the punch list, walked with you.

Typical range: 5–7 weeks for a refit · 8–14 weeks where structure moves

What we find in old kitchens

On a house built before 1980, demolition almost always turns something up. None of these are disasters, but they're worth knowing about before you're standing in the middle of them.

  • Floors well out of level, which cabinets and appliances make obvious in a way carpet never did
  • Subfloor damage under a dishwasher or sink that leaked slowly for years
  • Joists notched or drilled badly by previous plumbing work
  • Wiring that won't support modern appliance loads, or an undersized panel
  • Undersized or missing headers over openings that were widened at some point
  • Cast iron drain lines at the end of their life, best replaced while the wall is open

We carry a contingency line in the quote for exactly this, discussed up front rather than sprung on you.

Related work

Where this usually leads

Let's talk about your kitchen.

Get an estimate Call (201) 421-0080